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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

安兴分享于2020年05月15日
6.13W

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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

NANSONGZIHESELUOYINJINCAIHUIHUABIANDANYI

2020配资平台 YI、NANSONGDANYIDECHUTUGUOCHENG

2020配资平台 ZAIFUJIANFUZHOUDEBEIJIAO,YOUYIZUOXIAOSHANMINGJIAOFUCANGSHAN。ZAIDISHIDITANDEMINJIANGXIAYOUCHONGJIPINGYUANSHANG,GAOJIN38MIDEFUCANGSHANXIANDEYOUQIXIANYAN,YINWEISHANDEWAIXINGCHENGSIFANGPINGDING,SIZHOUCENGSHISHUIZEHUANRAO,YUANWANGYOURUYIZUOFUCHUSHUIMIANDECANGLIN,YEYOUJIZAISHUOCICHUCENGSHIHANDAITUNLIANGDECANGKU,SUOYIZIGUYILAIJIUBEICHENGWEI“FUCANGSHAN”。

GURENDUISIHOUJUSUOPOWEIJIANGJIU,ZAIXUANZHIYINGZAOMUZANGDESHIHOU,JINGCHANGQINGLAIDISHIGAOSONGDEDIFANG,FUCANGSHANZHEIZUOXIAOSHANYI“GUFENGTUQI,YUANSHANHUANBAO”ZHEIYIDILIXINGSHENG,ZAIMINJIANGXIAYOUCHONGJIPINGYUANSHANGYESUANDESHANGSHIYIGEFENGSHUIBAODILE,YUSHITANGSONGZHIHOU,ZHEIZUOXIAOSHANBAOJIZHOUBIANJIUYOULEDALIANGDEMUZANG,ZHISHISHISHIBIANQIAN,CENGJINGSHIHEYINGFENZHIZANGDEFUCANGSHANHOULAICHENGWEILEFUZHOUSHIDIQIZHONGXUEDESUOZAIDI。

2020配资平台 1975NIAN10YUEDEYITIAN,FUZHOUQIZHONGZAITUOKUANCAOCHANGSHI,FAXIANYIZUOMUZANG。FUJIANSHENGBOWUGUANWENXUNHOU,LIJIPAIRENQIANWANGSHIDIQINGLI,KAOGUFAJUEGONGZUOYEDEDAOFUZHOUQIZHONGSHISHENGDEXIEZHU。JUDANGSHIRENHUIYISHUO,DANGSHIDAJIACONGZUOZHIYOUQINGLIMUSHI,YIGONGFAXIANSANJUGUANGUO,ZHISHIZUOBIANHEZHONGJIANDELIANGJUGUANGUOZAONIANBEIDAOJUEYIKONG,PEIZANGPINSUOSHENGWUJI,JINQINGLICHUBAICIXIAODENGZHAN、TONGJINGDENGWUPIN。DANGDAJIAXINLICHONGMANSHIWANGDESHIHOU,HURANFAXIANZUIYOUBIANDEMUSHIWEIJINGDAORAO,LIMIANDEGUANGUOYEBAOCUNWANHAO。

对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

2020配资平台 ZHONGKUANGWEINANXINGMUZHUZHAOYUJUN,ZUOKUANGWEIXUQULISHI,YOUKUANGWEIYUANPEIHUANGSHENG

2020配资平台 YUSHIDAJIAMANHUAIQIDAIDIKAISHIQINGLIYOUBIANDEMUSHIHEGUANGUO。DAJIAPOBUJIDAIDIZAIXIANCHANGJIANGGUANGAIDAKAI,FAXIANLIMIANTIANMANLEDONGXI。BUSHAOWEIGUANQUNZHONGKANDAOHOU,BENZOUXIANGGAOSHUO“QIZHONGCHUBAOBEILE”,CHANGMIANYOUXIENANYIKONGZHI。“WEILEWENWUANQUAN,FAJUEZUJUEDINGJIANGGUANMUYUNHUIDAOFUJIANSHENGBOWUGUANNEIJIXUQINGLI。”

在福建省博物馆内,工作人员小心翼翼地开始清理,这是一座女性墓葬,打开棺盖后发现,尸体是被层层丝绸包裹着的,头盖覆面巾。尸体腐朽,发髻和骨架都完好。头发里插着鎏金银钗3支、角篦4枚。颈系绣花2020配资平台绶带凤纹金坠,胸前系心形鎏金镂孔银香熏。其实这就是人们经常说的霞帔,霞帔可不是随便人可以用的,这可是朝廷命妇的装束,也显然,这位女性墓主非同一般。

JIEXIALAIDEQINGLI,YIGONGCHUTULE436JIANSUIZANGQIWU,RANGZAICHANGDESUOYOURENDOUDACHIYIJING!ZHEI436JIANSUIZANGQIWU,YIFUSHI、SIZHIPINJUDUO,GONGJI354JIAN。SHULIANGZHIDUO、PINZHONGZHIQUANSHIZAILINGRENTANWEIGUANZHI,FANGFODAKAILEYIGENANSONGSHIQIDENVXINGYICHU,QIZHONGJIUBAOKUOZHEIJIANZIHESELUOYINJINCAIHUIHUABIANDANYI。

2020配资平台 ER、MUZHUHUANGSHENGQIREN

ZHEIMEDUOZHENGUIDESICHOUWENWUDAGUIMOJIZHONGCHUTU,YINFALESHEHUIGEJIEDEGUANZHU,DAJIADOUXIANGZHIDAO,ZHEIXIESICHOUDEZHURENDAODISHIHEXURENYE?ZHEIWEISHENGZHUANGRULIANDEMUZHUSHISHEI?WEIHEYONGYOURUCIDUODESICHOUPEIZANG?

2020配资平台 YAOXIANGZHIDAOMUZHUQIREN,DIYISHOUCAILIAOYINGGAILAIZIKAOGU。WOMENZHIDAO,GURENZAIXIAZANGDESHIHOU,JINGCHANGHUIYOUMUZHI,MUZHIYIBANHUIDUIMUZHUDEYISHENGJINXINGJIANDANGAIKUODEJIESHAO,BINGJIYUHUOZHONGKENHUOYIMEIDEPINGJIA。KEZAISHIBANSHANGDEMUZHIHENZHONG,YEBUHUITAIZHIQIAN,DAOMUZEIYIBANBUHUIDAIZOU,ZHEIYANGJIUWEIWOMENTIGONGLEYIGE配资公司 MUZHUDEZHUNQUEYIJU。

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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

HUANGSHENGMUZHI

2020配资平台 JIRANZHIDAOLEMUZHUDEXINGMINGSHIHUANGSHENG,NEIMEWOMENZAISHUNTENGMOGUAQUSHENJIUYIXIAHUANGSHENGDAODISHISHEI?CONGCHUTUDEMUZHI,ZAIJIEHEXIANGGUANSHILIAO,WOMENKEYIDAZHIGOULECHUHUANGSHENGDEYISHENG。

2020配资平台 HUANGSHENGDEJINGLIYOUDIANXIANGQIANZHENZIREBOJU《ZHIFOUZHIFOU,YINGSHILVFEIHONGSHOU》ZHONGDESHENGMINGLAN。HUANGSHENGSHIFUZHOUBENDIREN,1227NIANCHUSHENGYUFUZHOUBENDIDESHUXIANGMENDI、GUANHUANRENJIA,ZAITONGBEIRENZHONGPAIXINGDI52WEI,KEJIANHUANGSHIJIAZUSHIYIGERENDINGXINGWANGDEDAJIAZU。ZAIHUANGSHENGCHUSHENGDESANNIANHOU,TADEFUQINHUANGPOZHONGJINSHIDIYIMING,YESHIJIUGAOZHONGZHUANGYUAN,YINWEIKEJUCHENGJIYOUYI,SHOUDAOCHAOTINGZHONGYONG。HUANGSHIJIAZUJUEDEHUANGSHENGWEIHUANGJIADAILAIJIZHAO,YINCIGEWAICHONGAI。ZHISHIHUANGSHENGZIJIBIJIAOMINGBO,CHUSHENGHOUBUJIUMUQINJIUQUSHILE,SHIYOUZUMUPANFURENQINZIFUYANG,YESHIAIRUOZHANGSHANGMINGZHU。CONGMUZHIMINGZHONGKEYIDEZHI,ZUMUPANFURENYECHUZIYUSHILICHUANJIADEMINGMENMINGHUAN,TADETONGZUXIONGDIPANFANGYESHITANHUACHUSHEN,PANFURENDUI《TONGJIAN》NENG“CHENGSONG”,KEZHIQIWENSHIXIUYANGBISHEN,DUITAZHONGAIQIELIANXIDESUNNVHUANGSHENG,ZIRANGUANAIYOUJIA。HUANGSHENGSHOUJIAOLIANGDUO,HUOYISHENSHEN,ZHEIJIUSHIMUZHIMINGSUOCHENG“XIAN(XIAN)YUZUMUZHIXUN”DEHANYI。YOUCISHUXIANGXUNTAOYUGUIMENXUNJIE,WUGUAIHUHUANGSHENGZHANGDACHENGRENZHIHOU,QIUHUNZHEZIRANSHIWEIJIAOU。

对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

2020配资平台 YINGSHIJU《ZHIFOUZHIFOU,YINGSHILVFEIHONGSHOU》JUZHAO,SHENGMINGLANYUZUMU

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2020配资平台 HUANGSHENG,KEYICHENGDESHANGSHINANSONGSHIQIDE“BAIFUMEI”,CHUSHENGMINGMEN,JIARUHAOMEN,DANSHIZHIYOUDUANDUANDE17NIAN,ZHEIWEINANSONGSHIQIDEBAIFUMEIDEYISHENGQISHITINGMINGYUNDUOCHUANDE。YEXUZHENGSHIYINWEIMUJIAHEFUJIADUIQIDEJIETAN,SUOYIZAIHUANGSHENGCISHIDESHIHOU,SUIZANGLEDALIANGJINGMEIDESICHOU,YIBIAOAISI。

SAN、ZIHESELUOYINJINCAIHUIHUABIANDANYIDEJIAZHI

RUGUOWOMENCONGBUTONGJIAODUQUJIEDUZHEIJIANNANSONGNVZIDESHISHANGDANYI,YIDINGKEYIDEDAODALIANGDEXINXI。

1.NVXINGFUSHI

宋不像唐以胖为美,加上宋代女子开始缠足,女子的体态变得柔弱,女子妆束显得纤细。我们知道,南宋女子的内衣是抹胸,然后根据不同的场合会穿着不同形制的外衣,比较隆重的正式场合会穿着很大袖子的外衣,一般日常家具会穿着窄袖直身的外衣。

以往我们在文献中得知,南宋时期独具特色的外衣叫做褙子。这件南宋单衣,从其形制上看就是褙子,应该是黄昇日常家居服。过去对南宋服饰的研究,主要依赖于文献、绘画、雕塑,就像到宋画里面去找南宋女子装束,虽然直观,但是总是欠缺一些,黄昇墓出土的大量丝绸服饰,就是最鲜活最直接的实物资料,细细研究,可以深入了解这些服饰的款式、裁剪2020配资平台、穿戴使用等细节。

对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

SHUHUAZHONGCHUANZHEBEIZIDENANSONGNVXINGXINGXIANG

2020配资平台 2.YINHUIJIFA

ZHEIJIANDANYIZAIYIYUANCHUYOUYITIAOZHANGZHANGDEHUABIAN,ZHEIXIEHUAYANGBUSHIZHICHULAIDE,YEBUSHIXIUCHULAIDE,ERSHIYINCHULAIDE,ZHEIZHONGZAISICHOUSHANGYINCHUHUAYANGDEZHUANGSHIJIFAQISHIZAISANHUANGWUDIDENIANDAIJIUYIJINGCHUXIAN,DAOLESONGDAIYOUZHONGXINHUANFASHENGJI,CHENGWEISONGDAIDUJUMEILIDEZHUANGSHIYISHU。

对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

YINJINCAIHUIHUABIAN

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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

HUABIANWENYANG

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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

2020配资平台 JIANGJINBOBIANCHENGJINNI

3.SHENMEIYIQU

NANSONGSHIQI,SONGMINGLIXUESHENGXING,HUANGSHENGDEFUQINHEZHAOYUJUNDEZUFUDOUSHIZHUXIDEZHUISUIZHE,BIAOXIANZAIHUANGSHENGYIWUSHANG,FENGGEDADUOWEIQINGDANZIRANYUDUANYANZHUANGZHONG,CHENGXIANCHUYIZHONGDIDIAODESHEHUA。ZHEIJIANDANYISHANGMIANDEZHUANGSHIWENYANG,CHONGFENTIXIANLENANSONGSHANGCENGSHEHUIDESHENMEIQUXIANG。WOMENKEYIKANDAO,ZHEIJIANYIFUTONGTIPOSU,HUABIANDEZHUANGSHIYESHICAIYONGZHIWUWENYANG,ZHEIHETANGDAINEIZHONGYONGRONGHUAGUIDEDAHUAXINGCHENGQIANGLIEDUIBI。

2020配资平台 CHULEHUABIANSHANGDEZHUANGSHITUANSHIYIZHIWUWEIZHUZHIWAI,HUANGSHENGMUCHUTUSICHOUMIANLIAOSHANGYEYOUDADUODEHUAHUI。YUTANGDAIHUAHUIWENYANGDEYONGRONGHUAGUI、CHENGSHIHUAXIANGBI,NANSONGHUAHUIWENYANGXIANDEYOUWEIXIESHISHENGDONG,ZHEISHIDENANSONGHUAHUIWENYANGBEICHENGZHIWEI“ZHEZHIHUA”HUOZHE“SHENGSEHUA”,FANGFORENMENDAOYUANZILIZHEYIZHIHUA,YIZHIDAOSICHOUMIANLIAOSHANG,YIJIUHUOSESHENGXIANG。

对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

ZHEZHIHUAWENYANG

2020配资平台 QISHIZHEIZHONGGAIBIANSHIYOUYIDINGSHENGHUOJICHUDE,YIWANGRENMENMIANDUIZHIWU,YIBANSHICONGYAOYONGDEJIAODUQUGUANZHU,DAOLESONGDAI,ZHIWUKAISHIYILINGYIZHONGMIANMAOCHUXIAN,NEIJIUSHIGUANSHANGXINGHUAHUIZHIWU,SONGDAIYOUJIZAIDEHUAHUIZHIWUYIJINGGAODA360YUZHONG,ZHONGZHIJISHUBITANGDAIYOULEDADAJINBU,BUJINWENRENSHIDAFU,LIANPUTONGBAIXINGYEBAYANGHUA、SHANGHUADANGZUOSHISHANG,SONGDAIHUANIAOHUAYESHIZAICIJICHUSHANGFAZHANCHULAIDEYISHUXINGSHI。

4.ZHIZAOGONGYI

2020配资平台 LIANGSONGSHIQISHISHANGPINJINGJIJIWEIFADADESHIQI,ZAIFANGZHIYEZHONGZUIWEIDIANXINGDELIUXINGPINZHONGJIUSHISHALUO,ZAIHUANGSHENGMUCHUTUDESICHOUWENWUZHONG,SHALUODOUZHANJUJUEDUIDEYOUSHI,ZHEIJIANNANSONGDANYIYESHISHALUOZHIDI。

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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

SHALUO

2020配资平台 5.FUJIANTESE

2020配资平台 FUJIANSUIRANHENZAOJIUYOULESICHOUSHENGCHAN,DANSHIYIZHICHUYUBIJIAORUOSHIDEDIWEI。ZINANSONGYILAI,SUIZHEZHENGQUANDENANYI,ZHENGZHI、JINGJI、WENHUAZHONGXINYEZHUJIANCONGHUANGHELIUYUZHUANYIDAOZHANGJIANGZHONGXIAYOULIUYU,XIANGDONGNANTUOZHAN,FUJIANYIZHIYUANLIZHANZHENG,YIXINYIYIMOUFAZHAN,ZAICIBEIJINGXIA,FUJIANDECANSANGSIZHIYEYEZHUJIANFAZHANBINGCHENGSHU,CHENGWEINANFANGDIQUDEZHONGYAOSICHOUCHANQU,YEBUZUWEIQI。

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2020配资平台 6.HAISHANGMAOYI

2020配资平台 HUANGSHENGDEQINRENZAIDANGSHIDOUSHIXUNGUI,ERZHENGSHIYINWEIQIQINRENDEDIWEI,CAIRANGTAYONGYOULEFENGHOUJINGMEIDESUIZANGPIN。YOUQISHIQIFUHUANGPO,YUTONGMENDEZHAOSHISHUXIANGBI,SUIWEIZHUANGYUAN,ZHENGJIWENCAIJIEBURUHOUZHE,DANQIZAIDUANPINGNIANJIAN(1234NIAN—1236NIAN)ZHIQUANZHOUBINGTIJUSHIBOSI,SHIBOSISHIZHONGGUOZAISONG、YUAN、MINGCHUZAIGEHAIGANGSHELIDEGUANLIHAISHANGDUIWAIMAOYIDEGUANFU,XIANGDANGYUXIANZAIDEHAIGUAN,SHIZHONGGUOGUDAIGUANLIDUIWAIMAOYIDEJIGUAN。

ZINANSONGSHI,ZHONGGUODESHEHUI、JINGJI、SHENGCHANZHONGXINNANYI,HAISHANGSICHOUZHILUZAIDUIWAIJIAOLIUZHONGZHANJUZHONGYAODIWEI,FUJIANYANHAIDIQUDEDUIWAISICHOUMAOYIRIJIANXINGSHENG。SUIZHEZAOCHUANJISHUDEBUDUANTIGAO,ZHONGGUOCHUANBODETIJIHEKANGFENGLANGNENGLIZHUJIANJUBEILEYUANHANGDETIAOJIAN,ERDONGNANYAZHUGUOYEFENFENYUZHONGYUANWANGCHAOJIANLIQIWAIJIAOGUANXI,LUOMAYUZHONGGUOGENGSHISHIXIANLEZHIJIETONGHANG,NANHAISILUDEDAOLEXUNSUFAZHAN。TEBIESHITANGDAISHIYOUYU“ANSHIZHILUAN”JITUFANZHANLINGHEXIDENGJUNSHIZHANZHENGDEPOHUAI,SHAMOLVZHOUSICHOUZHILUDESICHOUMAOYIGUIMOZHUJIANSUOXIAO,SHIHAISHANGSICHOUZHILUJINRULEKONGQIANDEFAZHANQI,ZAISONGDAIYIHOUCHENGWEIZHONGWAIMAOYIDEZHUYAOTONGDAO。SIZHIPINZUOWEIJUECHUKOUHUOWU,WEI“HAISHANGSICHOUZHILU”ZUOCHULEFEICHANGZHONGYAODEGONGXIAN。

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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

《JIYUSITAI-ANJISUANDECUIRUOSIZHIPINJIEZHIJIAGUJISHUYANJIUYUSHIFANYINGYONG》HUOJIANG

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对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

XIUFUZHONGDENANSONGDANYI

对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

XIUFUZHONGDENANSONGDANYI

在过去的近800年时光里,这件紫褐色印金彩绘花边单衣历经沧桑,目睹黄昇短暂但富贵的一生,见证海上丝绸之路的繁盛,这是前世。也经历了一波三折的今生——出土时的剧变,病害缠身地沉睡于库房,到进入实验室接受治疗。目前这件南宋单衣在中国丝绸博物馆专业技术人员的治疗下已经安全出院,容光焕发地陈列于中国丝绸博物馆展厅,每天向观众讲述800年前的南宋时期“白富美”的花样人生,以及背后折射出波澜壮阔的海上丝绸之路。

对一件南宋女子时尚单衣的抽丝剥茧

CHENLIEZHONGDENANSONGDANYI

关健词: 南宋单衣 汉服
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